TMB: Day 0-1 of 12
A write-up on my recent hike around the Mont Blanc Massif. It allows me to relive the trip and work through the photographs. Hopefully, it will provide a little travel inspiration as you join me.
Day 0
One of those nights where it feels like I've been awake the whole night. In reality, drifting in and out of sleep for the last hour or so. The flight isn't until a respectable 10:30am, however, I can't help feeling excited and nervous at the same time. A trip that was planned way back in October has finally arrived!
I can never quite decide what the best time for transfer to the airport will be and how much time to leave for check-in. That sweet spot where we'll be fighting against the daily commuters, to take the side streets or hit the bypass. First time we have our young driver to drop us off which is nice. We turn right out of our street straight into a new set of lights for resurfacing works! Five minutes can feel like forever. The lights eventually change and it's plain sailing from that point on.
The anticipation of going somewhere new getting our bags through security and the breath of relief when the belt, and the boots are back on and all you need to do is watch the departure boards for a while. A coffee, a snack and I'm wracking my brain wondering if I've got everything, but it's all good.
Flight delayed by 30 mins or so, amazed at the turn-around on the tarmac and we are away. It didn’t take long for us to take advantage of the hour change and we cracked the picnic open with the salad I’d prepared from the night before (recipe below).
Although delayed by 30 minutes, we manage to reclaim 15 minutes in the air and land at 14:20 in a balmy 24°C (75°F). We catch a quick glimpse of blue sky as we stretch our legs moving from the plane to the bus on the tarmac
Passport control and customs, aside from a bit of queuing, is straightforward – just a mechanism for checking who we are. I was worried about the dates on my passport. It felt like I was sailing close to the wind. My passport has an issue date and start date a few months apart, making the expiry date confusing depending on the country. Boarding the plane, there was a moment of hesitation – a pause, a question to a colleague. I had forgotten that we had consciously decided I was within the rules. The colleague confirmed it was fine, but it didn't stop my heart from racing as I approached the desk. The customs officer didn't bat an eyelid, despite my Jason Bourne-like elevated pulse.
Geneva and its train connections are seamlessly integrated, as they should be in the 21st century. It's barely a 15-minute covered walk from the airport to the train station. We were early for our train, so we strolled leisurely along the concourse and the underground station. We stopped at a Migros supermarket for water and made a mental note for a return journey picnic that it was here. We took our first train to Geneva city center, with 30 minutes to spare. Following the crowd for a bit of daylight, we stumbled upon a promotion offering free ice creams. Naturally, we indulged! We found a seat to watch the world go by, observing people’s delighted reactions to the free treats. I couldn't help but wonder about the job satisfaction of handing out free ice cream!
I make a few notes
The heart of the city is busy, the trains as you would expect for such a hub.
Our connection runs on the hour to the mountains, there is no leap-frogging the fact.
The town of Annemasse, marks a distinct change to the landscape. The train changes direction, it gets a little quieter and the feeling of being in France kicks in.
There is rain, a serious downpour and we wonder about our clothing for the week of hiking ahead....then pass through Bonneville and it's dry again
We pass through Cluses, unexpectedly. We hadn't expected to pass through and mentally we tried to coordinate our location in our mind with past holidays as we'd been here before. Watched the Tour De France and the spectacle that's known as the caravan as they wiz by.
Arrived at the end of the line Saint Gervais Les Bains le Fayet after 7 and it was quiet. Not quite tumbleweeds across the street. However, no sign of a bus, and the taxi rank is empty. There is a list of numbers on a post, which we are reluctant to call.
The hotel is a 45 minute walk away, except it's uphill, and it's steep. Our trolley luggage is up for it and we've been sat on bums all day so the idea of a bit of fresh air is welcome.
We set off and it's easy going for a while, then we hit the rough terrain and wish we hadn't done this!
A car stops, the window goes down and a lady asks what I think are words to the effect of where are you going...or even what do you think you are doing in a you must be bonkers kind of tone!
I utter the words, parlez vous Anglais and she responds if you speak slowly I can understand!
We explain where we are going using our best Franglais and then she opens the boot for our luggage and invites us in. Hot, sweaty and so grateful we get in. The kindness of strangers!
With twists and turns that only the French Alps can provide, we go up and up, the relief of not having had to walk, we are so grateful and in our hotel within ten minutes or so. In passing she tells us the market is here tomorrow. We can't believe our luck!
The hotel was expecting us. A boutique kind of place, once a home that's been converted. Some home, in an amazing location! I'm not sure we were the guests he was hoping for, a little awkward conversation-wise. Over the next coming days, it doesn't change and I decide it's not us! We are just relieved to be there and that the first booking worked on what was to be our 1st place of 8 over the next week or so.
The hotel is nice, the room small but comfortable, a big bed with enough space not to disturb each other. A lovely setting and within a couple of minutes on the main drag which has a number of places selling drinks and dinner. Our picnic is still bountiful so no need for dinner this evening. We locate the supermarche buying a bottle of water despite the jug on the table, stretching our legs with a purpose.
Day 1
Breakfast is simple and continental. There are signs reminding guests not to waste food, almost as if we are being watched. But we’re not the type to stack our plates high and then waste. I follow my usual routine: soak my muesli while gathering coffee, some fruit, and a pastry. There’s a freshly baked angel cake (perfect for trifle I note) with a selection of jams; my favorite is Myrtle. I skip the cheese and ham, which feels odd in the morning. No waste here!
Our only task today is to get tickets for the mountain tram for tomorrow’s hike. It's hard to do nothing after such a busy lead-up, but we're grateful for the market in town.
I wish we had a kitchen to create and sample the offerings. I try to buy some Tomme, but the vendor only sells it in brick-sized portions. It's reasonably priced, but too much for a week, let alone a day. We move on and find a goat cheese seller with perfect-sized balls to spread on the bread we picked up from the boulangerie. We even have a few salad leaves left from yesterday’s picnic. We eat in the shade of a small park, watching the world go by, followed by cherries and a peach each. Little birds dance around our feet, pecking hopefully with the universal sideways glint. Two guys nearby are deep in conversation putting the world to rights. I can’t tell what they are talking about. It adds to the sense of being somewhere new.
We read; I started "One More Croissant for the Road" - Felicity Cloake, a few days ago, fitting for the trip. It's a way to acclimatise to the warmth, the air, maybe the altitude and the food! It helps shift our mindset to relaxing and partaking in the culture. The hiking will come soon enough.
We book dinner at the crêperie, the earliest sitting in order to digest the food before bed. Service starts at 7pm; we arrive at 6:45 and get our pick of seats, choosing a lucky spot on the balcony at the back rather than the main street. We reflect, enjoy the view, and contemplate the walk and adventure ahead. A small beer and a pichet of house rosé accompanies our meal. The selection of galettes offers simple French food that won't break the bank. We share the evening’s special dessert, brioche perdue, which doesn't disappoint.
Travel Salad for two:
Grain Salad Ingredients:
For the salad:
100 grams of bulgar
50 grams of mixed quinoa
100 grams of green lentils
1 small red onion, peeled and diced
A handful of cherry tomatoes, halved
1 tin of fish with olive oil
A handful of broccoli florets
Optional (use as available):
Chopped pepper
Chopped cucumber
Crumbled feta cheese
Freshly chopped herbs like parsley, basil, or mint
Toasted nuts or seeds (like almonds, sunflower seeds, or pine nuts)
Instructions:
Cook the grains and lentils:
Cook the bulgar and quinoa according to the package instructions. Choose grains that cook in a similar amount of time. Simmer for about 20 minutes. Once cooked, let them cool to room temperature.
Cook the lentils separately by bringing them to a simmer in a pan of cold water for roughly 20 minutes.
Prepare the vegetables and herbs:
Gently soften the diced red onion with a little olive oil in a frying pan.
Blanch the broccoli florets by dipping them in boiling water for 2-3 minutes, then run them under cold water to retain their colour and bite.
Chop any other vegetables you are using and set aside.
Finely chop the parsley and mint.
Assemble the salad:
Drain the cooked grains and lentils in a sieve.
In a large bowl, combine the cooked grains, lentils, and softened onions.
Add the tinned fish and stir through.
Transfer the mixture to the containers you are using for the picnic, then stack the remaining ingredients on top.
Enjoy your picnic! It’s more for inspiration on travel days when I’m trying to avoid paying for food that I’ll regret eating later.
I feel I am with you on the trip....look forward to the next part.
Love the pics—enjoyed the trip vicariously! Great writing: "Two guys nearby are deep in conversation putting the world to rights. I can’t tell what they are talking about. It adds to the sense of being somewhere new."